© 2008 pinaki somewhere between graffiti and a cat, a forgotten neighbourhood of old muscat

between graffiti and a cat

A heartbeat away from pavements, Range Rovers and the royal ship, from the gold souk and the corniche and the hypermarket – those reassuring fixities of the modern pan-Arab city – a warren of lanes and by-lanes run amok between houses, mosques, tailors, stray cats, the occasional shadow of a pregnant dog, Bangladeshis, Pakistanis and Indians. I’m not sure where I am, but this is another hillat, an old neighbourhood, perhaps even village before the city spread over. Somewhere over these graffiti-plastered walls there is a sheikh, a story of a tribe, an influx from Baluchistan. If they had more space they’d be playing football. There are earthen watchtowers above, looking over the port, but the one time I tried getting higher something growled at me and I went down again.


One Comment

  1. Karma
    Posted October 9, 2008 at 12:26 pm | #

    It’s a wise decision to retreat, whenever something growls

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