Moving to Eau
This blog has moved to Eau Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
This blog has moved to Eau Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The church of black volcanic stone, rising out of Clermont-Ferrand. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The path between the fields, behind Monsieur Marlow’s house. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Rocks atop the Forest of the Druids. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The last snow. The end of winter. Above the cross of Gibreix. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Around Gibreix, the last days of winter. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Along the path between the fields. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The path over the hill above Courdemanges. Towards Gibreix, and the end of winter. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Towards Gibreix, and the end of winter. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Hundreds of years old, oaks at the top of the hill above Les Treix. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Between the villages and the forest. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Around Gibreix. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Around Les Treix, before the end of the path leading away from the abandoned warehouse. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our …
Just before Croix Gibreix. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Looking towards Auzances from the hill above Gibreix. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Once used by warriors and pilgrims, a snowy path through the Forest of the Druids, la Forêt de Drouilles. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the …
The path to the Forest of the Druids, la Forêt de Drouilles. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The trails of a ragondin across a frozen pond in the Forest of the Druids. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our …
Along the track that leads from the hill above Les Treix to Le Soulier from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The edge of the farm at Les Treix. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Towards Gibreix. The road that no one takes. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Turning back towards Les Treix. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
A morning with one dog and no people. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The field near the cross of 1877 from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Snoopy, the dog from Les Treix who isn’t ever at home. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The road to the Forest of the Druids, la Forêt de Drouilles. Creuse. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The cross near the abandoned chicken coop. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
First snow of the year. Courdemanges, January 28. from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Le Soulier from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The mill above the stream. Le Soulier from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Le Soulier from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Le Soulier from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
The hill above Gibreix from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Le Petit Ecouteix from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Foret de Drouille from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own
Foret de Drouille from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own for Eau du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Foret de Drouille: the forest of the druids from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own for Eau du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Foret de Drouille: the forest of the druids from The Loneliest Village in France Pinaki | because the best stories are our own for Eau du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Worli, Bombay. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
The church at Hermet from The Loneliest Village in France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Acchelal Kando has spent most of his life selling peanuts in Bombay. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Around the corner from Wariposht, we sip on kahwa with Shamsa’s mother. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Wild daisies around la Ferme de la Valette from The Loneliest Village in France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
I lean in and switch to the 50. I can manage f1.8/200 and his eyes, watery blue around the irises, pop into focus. Everything else …
Hilal bin Ali al Amri has been burnt almost black after a lifetime in the glare of the sea, loading wood and dates onto dhows …
Foret de Drouille: the forest of the druids from The Loneliest Village in France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Foret de Drouille: the forest of the druids from The Loneliest Village in France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
The one-road village of abandoned houses. from The Loneliest Village in France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Even the walls seem a sickly jaundiced yellow in the last house of Mateira. It is here, crammed between the rock and the sea, that …
The muallim of Luluah, up here www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
The graveyard behind Crocq. from The Loneliest Village in France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Le Dolmen d’ Urbe from The Loneliest Village in France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
The way to Croix de Gibreix from The Loneliest Village in France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Roches Tuilière et Sanadoire, once part of the same volcano before it blew itself up till you could see right through it, down the path …
The man who grew up with wines, and sold them at the cooperative until the manager stole the money and shut it down. That’s when …
Col de la Croix-Morand from The Loneliest Village in France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Münster. Basel, Switzerland www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Le Petit Ecouteix: The Little Listening from The Loneliest Village in France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Empty rabbit cages at the end of town www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Barcelona, Spain. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Towards Crocq, a village of ghosts. Creuse, central France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Looking out over Etang des Landes from a peninsula of sand and marshland. La Creuse, France. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan …
Moutier-d’Ahun. Creuse, France. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Moutier-d’Ahun. Creuse, France. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Barcelona. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Chauche, France: I ate the cow named Désirée that’s being carved in the background. She had been cooking since 4am that morning, and fed 700 …
Towards Croix Gibreix. Central France. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Hermet, France. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Up here www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Near Ferme de la Valette. Creuse, France. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
The stare of a Charolais in the dying light of Creuse. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
The horse that no one wants www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Foret de Drouille, central France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
Foret de Drouille, central France www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
A land so lonely even the cows stare at you www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own for Eau Du Volcan | Courdemanges, France
From Losing Sela www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own
Imagine an island. An island that you can only imagine. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own
From Moskva: Sandpaper www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own
Beyond the Rubble of Bat. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own
Outside Krabi, Thailand www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own
Armenian church in Isfahan, Iran www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own
Kemp’s Corner, Bombay, 2008 www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own
In a city unbearably overloaded with architecture and tourists. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own
My first crossing of the desert: the Wahibas that were later renamed to the more politically-correct but inevitably wishy-washy Sharqiya Sands. This is a scan …
www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own Field Notes | Facebook | Twitter
Turning away from Jebel Kawr . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops
Wadi Ala . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops
Dragging myself over the remnants of a prehistoric lake . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat …
Towards Jebel Kawr . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops
The death of a fox. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops
Just south of the Iraqi border, in Kuwait. Leftovers from the invasion. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you …
With a fox behind me, and nothing ahead . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat Photo …
Perhaps a bit clichéd, but we don’t believe in clichés, do we? . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you …
Sometimes, the best light to shoot in is the bad light. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really …
www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops
www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops
And we cracked open haab gara’a between our teeth, sipping at water in glasses with fake gold lining in a massive room of empty seats …
After the Iraqis left, there wasn’t enough reason to ever come back. . Failaka, Kuwait . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if …
Over tea and pumpkin seeds, talking of rabbit traps in the desert and fish traps in the sea, traps that stretched from al Faw in Iraq …
Shooting in good light, shooting through bad light. ‘And what is good, Phaedrus, And what is not good – need we ask anyone to tell …
Destroyed, and abandoned, after the Iraqi invasion of Kuwait. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat …
6.13pm, Kuwait. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops | Paragraphs + Pixels
6.41pm, Kuwait. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops | Paragraphs + Pixels
The gargoor: a cage that lets the fish in but which is very difficult to swim out of… . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our …
A work in progress. But more here. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops …
. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter Paragraphs + Pixels | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops
From The Edge of Calcutta. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Up here now . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Eid in Wadi Bani Auf. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
From Kalashnikovs and Christmas in Yemen. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really …
Portugal and The Book of Disquiet, up here now. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & …
Portugal, coming soon. . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Portugal . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Portugal . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Lisboa . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Campo Maior, Portugal . www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
What does my wall think about my shadow? Sometimes I wonder about this until I realise I’m wondering about things… And then I feel annoyed and out of …
“My son made a cry like a monkey when he was born, mad and deaf,” he says, pointing to the now grown-up man sleeping on …
And Rashid was always getting lost. He was three years old and the family had been stuffed in the back of the pickup, and there …
www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
And it got so hot the bitumen on the roads turned to mush and the trucks that cleared the streets at night were sent out …
But that summer sleep was no good, and it brought nightmares like an ill summer wind blowing in all the bad stories, and I dreamt …
Or The Best City on Earth, by Muslim Magamayev in 1988. Better in Russian here You have never been to our bright city, You’ve never dreamed in …
And maybe we were all going crazy because it was ten at night and there was still light in the sky, because the sun almost …
And we stuff ourselves into the little kitchen – there are only small kitchens in Russia – cram ourselves into the little ground-floor room at …
And I lay, light-headed, half in the sun and half in the shade, while the berezki rustled between the raw concrete and the yellow tiles. …
Zaur is from Baku and we have nothing in common except music, and that’s enough, so he calls his son to meet us in the …
And that wind. That terrific wind that kills houses and roughs up the sea and turns daylight into a milky haze and throws sand over …
And there’s sand on the lens and we’re stumbling over tires and a stuffed toy horse. And Sayh Sufairi, the Plain of Copper, is just …
Somewhere south of the Ja’alan, between road, desert and sea. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | …
Khamis has lived in the wadi dust for a lifetime, without electricity, a phone or an address, with a donkey instead of a pickup truck, …
The sun has set but the light keeps reflecting off salt and water and sand and clouds. And the light is slipping away and we’re …
www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
And we’re crunching over the bits and pieces of the machinery that stood half a century ago in the factory where the sheikh used to …
Mukhaynig is a secret place, just a handful of houses of Sineidi, Bareeka, Saalmi and Hadmal slapped together in the earthen desert, downstream in the …
Mukhaynig is a place so removed from the outside world it looks like the ragged edge of a badly told fairytale. Because the light is …
The three month-old summer wind blows from the south, whipping an entire desert’s worth of sand across Sufayri, the plain named after its copper coloured …
It was the hottest month of the year, the time when tires explode in a mix of indiscipline, text messaging, speed and heat, and Ali …
High over the sea, on the cliffs of Daffa, the boy with oily hair walks up to me and raises his little face in greeting. …
www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
We’re crunching through sand where the wadi spills its guts out, the badlands of sand and dust and bits and pieces of stone carried with …
Khamis is up here now. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Hani is up here now. This is the view from her house in Qohbon. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat …
Sami is up here now. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Mohammed Abdullah Shahu al Balushi is up here now. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you …
The Masjid Awayna is up here now. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really …
Ayman is up here now. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Zeinab is up here now. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Saalma is up here now. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Shama is up here now. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat …
www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
Moskva is up here now. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops online | & if you really insist, Twitter
And it was Paskha, the Russian Orthodox Easter, and we were outside the church in Podolsk, the one on the hill from where you could …
Up here now. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & pinaki.info on Facebook | Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops | & if you really insist, Twitter
On our way to Sela, just before Tibet. I’m not going to write anything because I’m in the middle of the 7,600 word Moscow piece and …
But to understand Russia you have to understand the weather, and what it can do to the land, and how it can sandpaper the berezkas …
And mornings meant Lubyatova cornflakes soaked in Domik v Derevne moloko, the one with the babushka and the dacha and the berezka on the carton. …
And the snow can be cruel too, and while we’re tearing into pig hearts before Paskha in the little kitchen Andrushka was on a surface …
I’m back. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops | pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, Twitter
“The problem is that it’s easier to break down houses and start from zero than to restore them,” says Yulia, before she starts her eight-hour …
In Russia there is a babushka for everything. You will find the old ladies struggling impossibly outside with groceries in the cold, wool socks hitched …
Somewhere outside, past the thousands of trees and the villa that cannot be demolished because the owner has a paper signed by Lenin, past the …
And even the Pahra turned to slush and slowed to a crawl, and we cram ourselves into the smallest kitchen in Russia, sipping dry, homemade …
And the girl who had gone a lifetime without ever kissing anyone had a dream once that she was lying on the couch with a …
Gregory breathes heavily in his slick purple robe, panting through a haze of cognac and icons, while the snow drifts through the open doorway into …
Outside the Uspienski Sobor of the Kremlin, the group of women huddled together. “I didn’t notice the winter is almost over,” said one. “What are …
“Moscow in March is sandpaper,” said Tatyana. Like when the wind kicks up and your fingers go dead and your lips freeze till you can’t …
The furthest Khamis bin Rashid bin Khalfan al Nasibi has ever been is Rustaq, four hours of hiking and crawling and tiptoeing over rock away. …
My knees buckled when I first saw the path on the inside edge of Oman’s Grand Canyon that I had to walk and get a …
The Other Fryberger is up here. www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own & Nikon Muscat Photo Workshops | pinaki.info on Facebook | & if you really insist, …
The music’s so loud we can’t hear ourselves think. And as the sun sets behind the old house the dancer twirls through the last bit …
That last part, when you know you’re beyond ever stopping, happens in slow motion: the camel runs out from the trees and across the mountain …
A brother – a web designer – dances with his younger sister at a relative’s pre-wedding party in Muscat. Their father sings in the band …
Father and sons – one of whom is the groom – gather at the mosque their ancestor built, receiving well-wishers before the marriage. There is …
It is a quarter to midnight and the Balushi from Karachi is kick-starting the pre-wedding party, sashaying across the compound where the groom’s family is …
Manama, Bahrain. 2004. I was there to shoot the first F1 race in the Gulf, which was quite unbearable. I’d rather have spent more time sitting …
“The old people say that since we didn’t have any utensils in the old days we used to drop the flour for the bread right …
October 18, 2008 I’m sitting 1,300m up the northern slopes of the Jebel Kawr, squeezing limes into my bottles of water, licking the juice off my …
Was it worth it? Khamis laughs out loud at the question, while his brother Salim, who couldn’t ever put together enough money for a wife, …
January 2008 A handful of kilometers away from the forgotten civilisation that erected stone tombs 5,000 years ago, Zuwayna squints across her courtyard looking for company. The …
July 20, 2008: A quarter past noon. Hellishly hot white light bouncing off a landscape of rock outside. But I’m squeezing ISO1600 in the depths …
Up here now www.pinaki.info | because the best stories are our own
Now up at the Bait al Baranda, the second in the series. This is what Time Out Muscat said after the last one.
But it is twilight in le Conquet, and the sea is rushing in so fast it gives you vertigo when you stand in the middle …
Past Notre Dame, unbearably overloaded with architecture and tourists, where the faithful can buy a fake gold medallion from a vending machine for two Euros …
No one goes to Kaliabor, not even the Assamese. But you can have a look at it here.
I suppose there are poor people everywhere, and some of them work through a hard life and their children start off a little better. But …
Up here now. Huddled in the shade of goatskins, plastic sheets and dried thorn bushes, with civilisation somewhere behind the dust I’ve just kicked up, and …
A camel in Qafifa, where I shot the remnants of the Mingis. Who says only elephants have nice eyelashes? A muzzle helps when one moves …
I have four pages of scribbles that I scratched into the Moleskine as the taxi lurched from one end of the city to the other. …
Up here now. It is May 1999, and I’m in the jungles of Kerala on holiday from college. I have borrowed a little film point-and-shoot from …
It was September 2005, and I was, after a year and a half in Oman, hungry for intellectual stimulation. I found it one Friday morning …
Anything is possible in Dhofar, even an Egyptian journalist, a British soldier and a line of Iron Age rock arrangements no one has figured out …
This is what 5.43 on a January evening in a dead-end wadi looks like, with the fluttering dishdashas somewhere to the south, a thousand and …
The 135 rials Fatma earns at the school is spread wafer thin over the house and granddaughter she takes care of, and she had to …
It is January 2007 and Sibelle and I are 2,100m high on the Jebel Akhdar, at the top of the steps that the Persian army …
This is what you get more than a thousand kilometres of desert away from Muscat: an unknown beach a couple of turns away from the …
I need help. Is this piece worth putting up on my site, under the Oman portrait section? First useful comment gets a Bialetti Moka Express. …
Starting now, I will be exhibiting one story at a time at the Gallery on the Stairs at the Bait al Baranda, Muscat. I’ll go …
It was April 13, 2008, and I was at the end of a dead-end road, desperately looking for inspiration up a mountain. Instead, I found …
Dragging the fan belt along the highway at 140 wasn’t such a good idea after all. It was my second breakdown in three days. The …
Not as good as this one, of course. Or this, for that matter. Or even the chai shop in Sana’a. But considering I’m in Muscat, …
I was a thousand metres above sea level near a prehistoric lake and the moon was so close and bright I had to turn my …
Hani is sitting under the caves gouged into mountains that give her village its name, wrapped head to toe in twilight grey, red and green …
Saalma is ecstatic when my fixer Seema and I hunt down her house the next day, and practically hugs me when I say I have …
It is half past ten and the light is being broken up by the jagged edges of an entire neighbourhood of palm fronds, scattered on …
It is half past eight at night and we are sitting down to coffee and Irish cream over dull green kitchen tiles and a single …
Umm Khalid used to be royalty back home in Mandh, but that was a lifetime ago, in a faraway land now divided between Iran and …
Ayman is subconsciously twitching his knees in the diffused light that filters through shut windows at the far end of the majlis, as if trying …
Behind the priest, water is seeping through cracks in the rocks and out of the mountain, quietly channelled past the archaeological site, the ravaged remnants …
It is midday and I am sweating my way up over water-smoothened rock, blue-faced lizards and a mountainside of sun-bleached thorns. High on top, on …
Hilal bin Ali al Amri has been burnt almost black after a lifetime in the glare of the sea, loading wood and dates onto dhows …
The old man hitches up his dishdasha, showing off scars from operations in India as we huddle into the little room surrounded by mango and …
After almost five years, five hundred gigabytes of photographs, an estimated five hundred thousand words and one hundred and twenty thousand kilometres under the belt, …
It is 4 minutes to midnight and dinner was too long ago, and Tom Waits is singing Tom Traubert’s Blues and I follow its lyrics …
I am sitting by myself on an exposed outcrop of rock almost 400km from Muscat, in a little dead-end wadi that no one knows of. …
How does it feel to spend a whole day stuck in a sweatshop, and have an entire photography workshop’s worth of people jump in and …
One wild eye stares at me as I am offered fruit by an old lady who sits looking out over Hillat Mina at 5pm. I’m …
Raj is from Punjab, and has found it worthwhile to work in a hole in the wall shop in Muscat, in a back-alley maze where …
A heartbeat away from pavements, Range Rovers and the royal ship, from the gold souk and the corniche and the hypermarket – those reassuring fixities …
It is just past six and a hundred Pakistanis sit down to eat on the pavement, wedged in between bare mountains, tons of second-hand Toyota …
The truth is, Calcutta was a failure. After a lifetime of hearing about it I just about scraped through, like a pariah dog of the …
Author: Pinaki